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Hasan Qaʾimi’s türbe in Zvornik, Bosnia-Herzegovina

Sufism in Eastern Europe

Ethnographic fieldwork in Bosnia-Herzegovina, 2012 | Conducted within the framework of the research project ‘The Visual and Material Culture of Sufism in Central and Southeastern Europe’ | Outcome: 1 article

One of the most celebrated Bosnian Sufi šejhs and poets of the 17th century, Hasan Qaʾimi Baba (Hasan Kaimija) was exiled from Sarajevo after allegedly having become involved in the Sarajevo riot of 1682 and subsequently settled in Zvornik, now located in the Republika Srpska in northeastern Bosnia-Herzegovina. He died there in 1691–92. His mausoleum (türbe) in Kula Grad to the west of the old town of Zvornik was a small unassuming building, built of sundried brick and timber with a four-sloped roof layered with wooden tiles. According to the extract of archival records displayed in the türbe, the silahdar (‘arms bearer’) Mustafa Paša, son of the great merchant Hadži Sinan Aga (either the father or the son was the builder of the renowned Sufi lodge (tekke) of Hadži Sinan Aga in Sarajevo), recommended that the district master (mutesarif) of Zvornik, Mehmed Paša, build a Qadiri tekke next to the türbe (as stated in a firman dated 1805); yet no trace of the tekke has survived.

The expenses for the upkeep of both tekke and türbe were defrayed by the income of the religious and charitable endowment (vakuf) generated by the rafts crossing the river Drina in Zvornik, a saltern in Gornja and Donja Tuzla as well as raft fees in Brod and the small town of Derventa qadiluq; these proceeds were appropriated exclusively for charity. During the 1992–95 war in Bosnia-Herzegovina Hasan Qaʾimi’s türbe was completely destroyed by Serbian soldiers but since then has been rebuilt. A large old linden tree situated next to the tomb miraculously survived the destruction. One of the most sacred trees in Bosnia, linden trees are often the subject of local veneration. The trees surrounding Hasan Qaʾimi’s türbe are associated with the saint’s presence and during ziyaret (pious visitations, intercessory prayer, healing rituals) the trees themselves become an object of veneration. The popular devotion and respect shown to the saint (evliya) during his lifetime and the veneration thereafter continued to make Qaʾimi’s türbe an attractive location for graves so that a large cemetery came to form around the sacred site.

It is fortunate that Qaʾimi’s türbe and its interior were carefully documented by Mehmed Mujezinović before it was razed to the ground 25 years ago. His account of the türbe’s wooden partition is particularly noteworthy. It provides an insight into the importance attached to the ziyaret ‘tradition’ of the Bosnian Muslims and, in particular, to Qaʾimi’s türbe as a place of pilgrimage. The partition was made of fitted beech shingles and divided the first room, where the entrance of the türbe is located, from the second room which houses the cenotaph that marks the grave of the Šejh. The latter is framed by two simply cut tombstones without inscriptions; the grave stele is crowned with a three-dimensional representation of the Šejh’s headgear (tadž), enclosed by a simple openwork wooden grille and with ceremonial rosaries (tesbih) placed on the cenotaph; further tesbihs for the use of visitors hang from the railing of the grille.

According to Mujezinović, the partition was inscribed with around a hundred graffiti made by the pilgrims who visited Qaʾimi’s türbe. A number of inscriptions had been partially erased over time and so become illegible, but the surviving graffiti attested to Bosnian ziyaret rituals since the death of Hasan Qaʾimi. From the signatures it was possible to gain an impression of the sociological composition of the pilgrims: the visitors included ulema (religious scholars), Sufis, scholars and members of the general public. Their inscriptions demonstrated the exceptional degree of veneration paid to the Šejh over the centuries. Many pilgrims cited verses, while others eulogized Qaʾimi, adding their signatures and date of visit. Among these was a certain Ahmed Miri who made a calligraphic composition of the Ashabi kehfa in Arabic letters in the form of a sailing boat.  The composition refers to the Al al-Kahf or the Aṣhab al-Kahf (the seven ‘People of the Cave’ mentioned in surat al-kahf (The Cave, 18:9–26), who went to the ‘threshold of God’ (dargah-i Allah), where God enclosed them in a cave. There, they sank into a miraculous sleep lasting three hundred and nine years, to shelter them from the depravity of the world. Thus associated with a golden age, the Seven were cradled by God as though in a boat; this is also why the Ottoman fleet put itself under their patronage and inscribed their names on the sterns of their ships. The story of the refuge from a hostile world is modelled upon the Christian legend of the Seven Sleepers of Ephesus and enjoyed long-lasting popularity throughout the Islamic world. The simile of the companions’ miraculous ‘sleep’ in a sacred space such as a cave has been a recurring motif in Islamic mysticism. Caves are traditionally seen as places of seclusion and meditation; in Sufi thought they are often viewed as a place for withdrawal from the world as well as a symbol of initiation and of proximity to the divine. It is well known that Muhammad was prepared for prophethood and received his initial qurʾanic revelation in a cave on Mount Hiraʾ where he used to retire for meditation. It was in the solitude of this cave, the place of meditation in the dark, undisturbed in his concentration upon God, that he was first blessed with the divine words. It was also in a cave that, at the time of his emigration from Mecca to Yathrib (later called Medina) in 622, the Prophet sought refuge together with his companion Abu Bakr to evade his pursuers (Q 9:40). According to Sufi tradition, this was the place where Muhammad introduced Abu Bakr into the mysteries of halvet (spiritual retreat) and the silent zikr (‘remembrance of God,’ divided into zikr al-qalb, ‘in the heart,’ and zikr al-sirr, ‘of the innermost being’).  The apocalyptic aspect of the legend of the Al al-Kahf is reflected in the popular Muslim belief that the Seven will precede the Mahdi, ‘the rightly guided one’ whose rule will be inaugurated before the end of the world, during the conquest of Jerusalem, where they will perish as shehids (martyrs in combat for the faith). 

The display of arms, the battle axe and the halberd-like spear, as ritual emblems in Qaʾimi’s türbe, confer upon the Šejh the spirit of a dervish ghazi, or warrior for the faith. The greater jihad moreover requires the practice of halvet, which involves ascetic discipline, vigils at night, nocturnal supplications, gradually increased fasting and concentration of the mind, mainly by means of zikr (lit., ‘reminding oneself’). It is particularly noteworthy that Qaʾimi Baba is said to have conducted his spiritual retreat of forty days (čilla) in a standing position (Arab. qaʾimun), a practice which gave rise to his name. The latter also associates him with the Arabic term qaʾim (‘riser’) and with Qaʾim Al Muhammad (in Shiʿi circles commonly seen as the Mahdi); thus referring to the member of the family of the Prophet who will restore religion and justice on earth, often referred to as al-Qaʾim bi 'l-sayf, ‘the one who shall rise with the sword.’

Popular thought ascribes numerous miracles to Qaʾimi’s charismatic powers during his life and after his death. According to one legend, Qaʾimi stayed with the Djulbegović family in Zvornik. One day, when one of the members of this family had to go to war, Qaʾimi gave him a phylactery (pusul) with secret inscriptions which saved his life.  It is said that if one takes a vow in the name of Qaʾimi and recites sura Yasin (36) – called the ‘heart of the Qurʾan’ – the vow will be fulfilled. The evliya is also said to possess the gift of healing human ailments. A certain Hadži Harba was very ill so he went to the evliya’s türbe in Zvornik. After offering his prayers, he made a miraculous recovery. It is also said that during the First World War Zvornik and the region around it was protected by Qaʾimi. It was thanks to his powers that no one was injured.

Before the total destruction of the türbe in 1992–95, it housed six documents from the first half of the 19th century that related to the appointment and functions of the türbe’s keeper, or türbedar, and his revenues, alluding to his role as a kind of intercessor for the pilgrims, instructing visitors about the local etiquette of devotion and administering alms. The first known türbedar of Qaʾimi’s türbe was Šejh Omer of Jedren (Edirne) who also served as zaviyedar (administrator) of the tekke in Zvornik. After his death in 1819, the Šejh was succeeded by his son Mehmed. Today the türbe is cared for by two türbedars, one of them currently a woman. Hiba and Šaban Šehmedović each take two-week turns to care for Hasan Qaʾimi’s türbe.